Mashed Potatoes: A Recipe Steeped In History

Apr

2009

Mashed Potatoes: A Recipe Steeped In History

Author: admin

Potatoes have become such a European staple that it wouldn’t be hard to find someone in Ireland or Poland who would swear that the starchy little tuberous crop was indigenous to the Old World. But in fact, potatoes are native to the Americas and were only introduced to Europe in 1536. Today, the root is common in dishes and beverages the world over, in everything from potato chips and French fries to vodka and mashed potatoes. The potato, in fact, has a long and fascinating history that is integrally tied to some of the most pivotal events in human history.

While thousands of varieties of potato still grow in the Andes today, where as many as a dozen varieties may be maintained in a single household, only a few varieties were brought back to the Old World and subsequently made a staple food. Because of this, genetic diversity amongst the potato dwindled, rendering the crop vulnerable to disease. By the mid-19th century, Ireland’s potato varieties were so genetically similar that the crop was decimated by a plant fungus called Phytophthora infestans, more commonly known as blight. This caused the Great Irish Famine of 1845 which hit the poorer communities in Western Ireland the hardest, killing nearly a third of the Irish population and causing mass emigration from the country.

If you visit the western counties in Ireland, even today you can still see evidence everywhere of this tragic chapter in Irish history. Commonly known simply as “famine houses,” ruins of little stone cottages still litter the countryside. These houses the size of most modern kitchens were typically inhabited by families with as many as ten children – as well as their farm animals, if they were lucky enough to own any. When the famine hit, families either perished in these houses or in the “coffin ships” sailing to America (where conditions were horrible). While some were lucky enough to make the trip and reestablish themselves in America, millions of men, women, and children died. The greatest tragedy is that Ireland possessed more than enough food supply to feed its people but, because of rampant racism and classism entrenched in the British colonial government that ruled over Ireland, the British let these innocent people starve. Famine houses have been left standing to make certain that this great injustice is never forgotten and that the memory of those who died lives on.

Some say the recipe for mashed potatoes originates in 1771 when a French man named Antoine Parmentier came up with the idea of having a competition on ways to make potatoes. Having had the idea, it’s no surprise that he then won first place and then eventually began cultivating potatoes himself. The story goes that he hired a group of royal soldiers to guard his farm near Paris. But the guards were not vigilant enough; peasants stole Parmentier’s crops, effectively introducing potatoes into the cuisine of France and, much later, widespread Europe.

Etymologically, the word “potato” is a pastiche of terms made from Old and New World languages. Patata is the Spanish word for “potato” and is probably derived from the older Quechua word papa and the Taino word batata, meaning “sweet potato.” Rich in carbohydrates, the potato is still beloved among the Irish – both in Ireland and in Irish immigrant communities in the United States. One way to remember the Great Famine is to cook up some traditional mashed potatoes, a favorite Irish dish, in honor of the famine victims. Perhaps you have Irish ancestry that makes this dish particularly sentimental for you. Or maybe you want to take a stand against tyranny in any form, even in a form a subtle as your cuisine choices. Either way, mashed potatoes are easy and delicious to make.

The basic recipe for mashed potatoes is pretty much the same all over. What distinguishes one recipe from another are the ingredients added after the potatoes are mashed. Many people add cheese, sour cream, bacon, garlic, onions, or herbs to flavor their potatoes.

Recipe for mashed potatoes that would make Antoine Parmentier proud:

- six potatoes (not too big, not too small)

- 1 C of heavy cream or half-half

- 1/2 C of salted butter

- salt and pepper to taste

Because they yield smooth and creamy mashed potatoes, the best varieties for mashing are Russet, Yukon Gold, or Red potatoes.

First you’ll need to peel and wash the potatoes. You can leave some the skin on the potatoes to give them more of an old-world, traditional flavor and texture. This may make mashing a bit more difficult, but it’ll be worth it, I promise.

The next step is to cut them. Make sure to cut big chunks because, although they may take a bit longer to cook they’ll absorb less water. Once chopped, add the potatoes to a medium to large-sized pot and cover them with cold water until they’re fully covered. You can add salt at this point, if you like. Put a cover on the pot and turn the burner to high until the water boils. Then, turn it down to a simmer and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. Check if the potatoes are cooked by poking a large piece with a fork or knife. The utensil should be able to go in to the vegetable easily. If not, then give them a few more minutes before taking them off the heat.

Next, drain the water from the potatoes and put them back on the stove in the same pot. Turn the burner on very low and get all or most of the water to evaporate. Don’t walk away from the pot at this stage, and be sure to stir them constantly, as you could easily burn them if too much water evaporates or if the same potatoes sit at the bottom of the pot for too long.

At the same time, you can add the cream and butter together in a separate pan and heat on low just enough to melt the butter. Then, when all the water is evaporated from the potatoes, mash them with a non-electric hand masher. This allows you to determine how smooth or how lumpy you want to make them. No matter what, avoid using an electric mixer because they tend to mix the potatoes too much and destroy the texture. Once you’ve mashed the potatoes to the perfect consistency, add the melted butter and cream mixture. That is the most basic form, but you can also get creative and add other quirky flavors to it, as well. What about mustard mashed potatoes? Or cheddar mashed potatoes? Or even basil mashed potatoes?

But however you choose to make your mashed potatoes, take a moment before you sit down to enjoy them and reflect on the complex history of this simple dish.

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